Well...$&@:#%^

[Bruno]

I hate to see anyone have issues! Hope everyone’s is working by the weekend.

 

[SillyRabbit]

So, are there two fuses? I'd like to have some on hand just in case. Which one is located where?
5amp 250v
1.6amp 240v ceramic

 

[bbqking]

The one I replaced is right between the power switch and where the power cord plugs in. I used a 5amp 250 volt, glass fuse and it works fine. Not sure where the others are. Note: I orderred actual ceramic fast acting fuses from amazon to replace, as the one I got is slow acting.

 

[Dassman5]

So, are there two fuses? I'd like to have some on hand just in case. Which one is located where?
5amp 250v
1.6amp 240v ceramic

If you have the owners manual, look on page 31 for the correct specification. According to that they claim the correct fuse is a fast blow ceramic 1.6 amp fuse rated at 250 volts. I simple terms, Here is why.

According to Ohm’s Law watts/volts= amps.

(1) The Smoke Fire, according to Weber is rated @100 watts, although the average watt draw on the SmokeFire is around 85 watts.

(2) The unit operates on normal house voltage of 120volts, (not 240 or 250), but nominal is closer to 110 to 115 volts. So let’s say 115 volts.

(3) Therefore: 85/115= .74 amps, or 100/115=.87 amps.

(4) However, house voltage can vary to as low as 110 volts, or lower at the SF plug when you use an extension cord, plus on start-up there is always a minor, instantaneous current in-rush or surge. Hence, Weber decided to use a 1.6 Amp fuse, which could handle such circumstances and made it a fast blow to protect from power surges. This gives you up to around 192 watts @115 volts (assuming you are actually getting that voltage at the SF unit) before the fuse blows.

(5) As for the 250 volt rating of the fuse, that means it can handle the normal variations in power supplied by your utility (I monitor mine continuously, and it varies between 111 and 118 volts) across a typical day depending what other loads are being exerted on the pole mounted utilities transformer that also services my neighbors). The key is that it will blow quickly at wattage that exceeds 192.

(6) The model number of this fuse is a 5x20MM. The five is not an amp rating, because a 5 amp fuse at 115 volts would not blow until it sees a 575 watt draw from the SF, which would “fry” the unit since it is rated at only 100 watts. 5*115=575 watts.

Bottom line: only replace your fuse with a 1.6 amp, 250 volt fast blow ceramic fuse, or F1.6A250V

 

[bbqking]

If you have the owners manual, look on page 31 for the correct specification. According to that they claim the correct fuse is a fast blow ceramic 1.6 amp fuse rated at 250 volts. I simple terms, Here is why.

According to Ohm’s Law watts/volts= amps.

(1) The Smoke Fire, according to Weber is rated @100 watts, although the average watt draw on the SmokeFire is around 85 watts.

(2) The unit operates on normal house voltage of 120volts, (not 240 or 250), but nominal is closer to 110 to 115 volts. So let’s say 115 volts.

(3) Therefore: 85/115= .74 amps, or 100/115=.87 amps.

(4) However, house voltage can vary to as low as 110 volts, or lower when you use an extension cord, plus on start-up there is always a minor, instantaneous current in-rush or surge. Hence, Weber decided to use a 1.6 Amp fuse, which could handle such circumstances and made it a fast blow to protect from power surges. This gives you up to around 192 watts @115 volts (assuming you are actually getting that voltage at the SF unit) before the fuse blows.

(5) As for the 250 volt rating of the fuse, that means it can handle the normal variations in power supplied by you utility (I monitor mine continuously, and it varies between 111 and 118 volts) across a typical day depending what other loads are being exerted on the pole mounted utilities transformer that also services my neighbors). The key is that it will blow quickly at wattage that exceeds 192.

(6) The model number of this fuse is a 5*20MM. The five is not an amp rating, because a 5 amps fuse at 115 volts would not blow until it sees a 575 watt draw from the SF, which would “fry” the unit. 5*115=585 watts.

Bottom line: only replace your fuse with a 1.6 amp, 250 volt fast blow ceramic fuse, or F1.6A250V

Then the 5 amp is not correct? Because that’s what the manual said, anc that’s what the Weber rep said? Unless I read it wrong. I looked right at the 1.6 amp fuses and there was no way they would replace the one o took out. Too small.

 

[Dassman5]

Then the 5 amp is not correct? Because that’s what the manual said, anc that’s what the Weber rep said? Unless I read it wrong.

Here is where the confusion arises:

On page 31 of the manual it says that: “The grill’s power supply utilizes a 5 Amp, 120 Volt Cartridge Fuse” . ( What they are essentially saying is that it is a cartridge replaceable fuse holder than can handle up to 5 Amps.

This is where the confusion starts, as it then states a “CAUTION: Only use the properly sized and rated fuse...”. The specifications then follow:

It is a: “5x20MM FAST BLOW”. (That is the Model Number.)

It is a: “1.6A @ 240 VAC”. (That is the amperage and voltage rating of the correct fuse.)

I know that this is confusing, but I suggest you call and get another tech rep from Weber to explain it correctly and give you the piece of mind. You can also “google” on-line and look at other SmokeFire sites.

 

[bbqking]

That’s another thing. I questioned the rep about getting the wrong fuse. He said it would NOT void the warranty. He said it was talking about middingvthe grill parts would void it. Like adding additional parts.

 

[Dassman5]

That’s another thing. I questioned the rep about getting the wrong fuse. He said it would NOT void the warranty. He said it was talking about middingvthe grill parts would void it. Like adding additional parts.

Like I said...call Weber, as for a technical support technician dealing with electrical issues and ask him to verify if it is okay to use a 5 amp fuse. That way, if they say yes, get their name and record the date and time for when it fails.

I long ago realized that many technicians are only call center people just reading their manual without any real knowledge of what they are saying.

 

[bbqking]

So now the rep is asking a supervisor. Is suppose to be emailing me the correct info. And the supervisor is suppose to call me back

 

[Dassman5]

So now the rep is asking a supervisor. Is suppose to be emailing me the correct info. And the supervisor is suppose to call me back

If nothing else you make have forced Weber to have their reps provide the correct information.

Let me know how you make out...I too am now curious. Their manual, on Page 31, needs a serious rewrite to remove the ambiguity.

 

[Dassman5]

Then the 5 amp is not correct? Because that’s what the manual said, anc that’s what the Weber rep said? Unless I read it wrong. I looked right at the 1.6 amp fuses and there was no way they would replace the one o took out. Too small.

By the way, the reason the 1.6 amp fuse you saw looked so small is that it was either rated at 120 volts, or even 12 volt or 24 volt. Hence the need for a 1.6 Amp, 250 volt fuse as the fuse holder is rated for 250 volt fuse sizes.

 

[bbqking]

My question now is will using the 5amp 250 volt harm my SF? I’ve already done one cook with that fuse in it...and it worked fine.

 

[Dassman5]

My question now is will using the 5amp 250 volt harm my SF? I’ve already done one cook with that fuse in it...and it worked fine.

The answer is that the fuse is oversized for the circuit ( in this case the SmokeFire) it is protecting. Short answer: Yes it will work but it is not protecting the grill.

Not much different than, say, putting a 20 or 30 amp oversized breaker or fuse on a wiring circuit that is only rated to carry a 15 amp load...the circuit will work, but you run the risk of overheating the wiring or not protecting the device that is plugged into that circuit.

in this case the 5 amp fuse is more than enough to power your grill, which only requires around 100 watts to run.

However, that 5 amp fuse will pass up to 575 watts through to the grill circuits and electronics before blowing. Therefore should you get a power surge due to lighting or utility malfunction, or should the grill itself experience a short, you run the potential to allow over 5 times the maximum flow of electricity (575 vs. 100) to the grill and it’s electronics.

That is the danger inherent in the Weber manual instructions, as it’s ambiguity allows someone to misinterpret the correct fuse size.

 

[bbqking]

Just called Weber again, because they haven’t called me back...the rep informed me that Lowe’s carries the proper fuse for the grill. She stated it was a 5 amp 120 volt fuse. I questioned several times saying I found a 5 amp but the volt was 125 volt. She stated Lowe’s carries it. She’s been working at Weber for 25 years, and knows what she’s doing...so I asked if it’s suppose to be a fast acting fuse or slow acting...she didn’t know what that meant...lol. Asked to speak to a supervisor. I told her the manual actually says the part is a 1.6 amp 250 volt. She said no, the proper fuse is 5 amp 120 volt. Sigh!!

 

[Dassman5]

Just called Weber again, because they haven’t called me back...the rep informed me that Lowe’s carries the proper fuse for the grill. She stated it was a 5 amp 120 volt fuse. I questioned several times saying I found a 5 amp but the volt was 125 volt. She stated Lowe’s carries it. She’s been working at Weber for 25 years, and knows what she’s doing...so I asked if it’s suppose to be a fast acting fuse or slow acting...she didn’t know what that meant...lol. Asked to speak to a supervisor. I told her the manual actually says the part is a 1.6 amp 250 volt. She said no, the proper fuse is 5 amp 120 volt. Sigh!!

I don’t know what to say.