Temp drop detected

Yes, that is the definition, but I can use a meat probe to measure ambient temps by simply installing it in a spring type ambient temp probe holder. They do make a different type of probe for ambient, but I wonder why. I suppose there is a reason?
I sometimes use a probe port like you describe for certain cooks but I don’t like leaving it there for cooks over 300. Just a lot of wear and tear on the probe leads.
The Ambient grill probes have a rounded end, and are designed to measure temperatures across a much wider temperature spread and in my experience more durable, while meat probes, with the pointed end for inserting in meat, will fail, or have a shortened life if exposed to high temperatures.
 
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Hopefully was just the pellet change. I also feel like I’m going through pellets faster than before but can’t say for sure since never actually tried to calculate it.
 
Like Bruno said!
Guys, that is just insulting. Why are probes for air temp and meat temp different? Why are different constructions necessary? Or are the probes the same and they are marketed as different?
 
Guys, that is just insulting. Why are probes for air temp and meat temp different? Why are different constructions necessary? Or are the probes the same and they are marketed as different?
Huh?! This post has now officially been hi jacked... lol
 
OK, guys, I am starting to get the idea.
Air - blunt end, higher temp.
Meat - pointy end, lower temp.
Weber has both types and they have ends like we described. But both types have the same temp range. And I do like the idea of using the fourth probe port to check the ambient temp because the PID averaging is covering a fairly large range (at least plus or minus 35 degrees).
 
I actually think this is a real problem with the Smokefire dropping temp and is happening to a lot of people. Across different platforms many people seem to be reporting this.

For me it started happening after the big firmware update in June and has been an intermittent problem since. I have mentioned it as part of a problem that occurring to me over a period of time along with a firepot fire during shutdown that melted my glowplug a fortnight ago,

I have provided video evidence of this temp drop problem in a middle of cook along with having to shutdown as it continues to drop without increasing temp, along with the fire that happened.

I am hoping that some of the people that are experiencing these temperature drops are reporting it to Weber even if it is just a minor inconvenience to them or just an intermittent problem? The more aware Weber are made of this the quicker they will acknowledge it and hopefully find a workaround, whether it be a Firmware/Software or Hardware problem. But I do believe it is a fault and needs rectifying on the machine.,
 
I think that they have a problem with the temp averaging and temp rate of change coding in the software. I am also still interested in how the app may effect these areas.
 
I think that they have a problem with the temp averaging and temp rate of change coding in the software. I am also still interested in how the app may effect these areas.
If I was to bet, it has to to with the “D” function in the PID logic. I had heard that they were going to re-introduce the glow plug re-ignition to assist, but have asked and yet to get a response from Weber. The response times definitely slowed following the last update; perhaps too much.
 
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Dassman can you explain a PID controller to us, how does it work,
How should it work?
 
Dassman can you explain a PID controller to us, how does it work,
How should it work?
I will give you a quick layperson description, as there are lots of on-line resources if you really want go get into it.

The crux of the issue lies in the reality that we have become an instant gratification society. When we want something, we want it immediately(think Amazon). When extrapolated to pellet grills, it means we would like to dial in a set-point and get an instant response, and have that set-point temp stay exactly there; something we can immediately monitor in this digital age. While critical in industrial applications, it is not that critical in a pellet grill like the SF, because some variation in temp (oscillation) is not critical. [Enough soap box]

Essentially, , a PID device is used whenever you want to keep things relatively constant ( like temp), but have varying set point or changes to what your target (constant) wants to be...think about cruise control on a car...you get to the speed you want, engage the cruise and it will attempt to maintain that speed by opening and closing the throttle based on Feedback from the wheels (sensors).

PID stands for Proportional-Integral-derivative. Essentially, when you pick a set-point temperature for your grill, it strives to obtain and maintain that temp based on feedback (the permanent grill temp probe) by increasing or decreasing the pellet feed rate.

The simplest type of PID is an on-off-on type that feeds or does not feed pellets to maintain the temperature within a pre-programmed band. These can be found on some very inexpensive pellet grill.

A more sophisticated approach looks at the “P” as gain and error (over or under) and attempts to correct for that in its output (pellet feed). However, by itself it will lead to oscillation over and under shooting the set-point. Essentially this P function corrects for instances of error from the set-point.

Enter the “I” factor. Think of it as a mathematical holding basket the measures and accumulates the over and under shoot and essentially adds fewer or more pellets to reduced the under-over shoot from what the “P” function would do by itself. Essentially this function corrects for the accumulation of errors.

Finally the “D” factor, the most complicated of all. Essentially it looks at the rate of change based on the amount of change currently measured vs. the last time it was measured and puts a damper on the “P” and “I” functions. So, for instance, if the set point changes dramatically, the P&I functions will want to make major changes to the pellet feed, but the D essentially becomes what we used to call the “DO VS. DO-NOT-DO” function. [Think of it as the brakes in your car] It minimizes the oscillation of the temp that the P &I want to do and keeps the grill from either going too far over or under the target temp as a function of how long it is applied.

The “D” function is extremely important for steady-state control, whether your car or the SF. My concern is that if too much D is applied during major temperature changes, it may result in a flameout unless there is a means to “keep the fire going”. In a car, the engine is always being fed fuel and the spark plugs keep firing even when in idle. Not so with Diesel engines or pellet grills, as glow plugs are not a constant-on.

I believe, yet have no direct knowledge, that the last update attempted to resolve this by “refiring ” the glow plug at some point In order to maintain combustion, but by itself may not be sufficient as there also has to be some fuel (pellets) being fed.

What I and others have observed, it that the delays in response to getting to the new set point have become greater since the last update, which in a way is good, as it reduces the potential to overshoot or undershoot the target set-point which leads me to surmise that a bit too much “D” is applied.

From my perspective this is just part of the learning curve, it happens in all pellet grills, and will be corrected with the iterative upgrades. In the interim, I tend to minimize the flameout risk by making set-point adjustments that are Step wise and smaller.

It is easy to watch the PID controller in action of you have an ambient grill temperature probe. You can see the run-up and run-down in temperature as well as the oscillation around a set point as it gradually narrows the variations in temperature fluctuations over time.

Disclaimer: I may totally wrong about the logic Weber uses, as I do not have access to, or direct knowledge of, the Weber control logic.

Further, I will defer to others who probably have a much greater knowledge of PID control logic...all I am striving for is good food, and so far the SF is delivering (I am in the middle of smoking a 15# brisket as I write this)
 
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I will give you a quick layperson description, as there are lots of on-line resources if you really want go get into it.

The crux of the issue lies in the reality that we have become an instant gratification society. When we want something, we want it immediately(think Amazon). When extrapolated to pellet grills, it means we would like to dial in a set-point and get an instant response, and have that set-point temp stay exactly there; something we can immediately monitor in this digital age. While critical in industrial applications, it is not that critical in a pellet grill like the SF, because some variation in temp (oscillation) is not critical. [Enough soap box]

Essentially, , a PID device is used whenever you want to keep things relatively constant ( like temp), but have varying set point or changes to what your target (constant) wants to be...think about cruise control on a car...you get to the speed you want, engage the cruise and it will attempt to maintain that speed by opening and closing the throttle based on Feedback from the wheels (sensors).

PID stands for Proportional-Integral-derivative. Essentially, when you pick a set-point temperature for your grill, it strives to obtain and maintain that temp based on feedback (the permanent grill temp probe) by increasing or decreasing the pellet feed rate.

The simplest type of PID is an on-off-on type that feeds or does not feed pellets to maintain the temperature within a pre-programmed band. These can be found on some very inexpensive pellet grill.

A more sophisticated approach looks at the “P” as gain and error (over or under) and attempts to correct for that in its output (pellet feed). However, by itself it will lead to oscillation over and under shooting the set-point. Essentially this P function corrects for instances of error from the set-point.

Enter the “I” factor. Think of it as a mathematical holding basket the measures and accumulates the over and under shoot and essentially adds fewer or more pellets to reduced the under-over shoot from what the “P” function would do by itself. Essentially this function corrects for the accumulation of errors.

Finally the “D” factor, the most complicated of all. Essentially it looks at the rate of change based on the amount of change currently measured vs. the last time it was measured and puts a damper on the “P” and “I” functions. So, for instance, if the set point changes dramatically, the P&I functions will want to make major changes to the pellet feed, but the D essentially becomes what we used to call the “DO VS. DO-NOT-DO” function. [Think of it as the brakes in your car] It minimizes the oscillation of the temp that the P &I want to do and keeps the grill from either going too far over or under the target temp as a function of how long it is applied.

The “D” function is extremely important for steady-state control, whether your car or the SF. My concern is that if too much D is applied during major temperature changes, it may result in a flameout unless there is a means to “keep the fire going”. In a car, the engine is always being fed fuel and the spark plugs keep firing even when in idle. Not so with Diesel engines or pellet grills, as glow plugs are not a constant-on.

I believe, yet have no direct knowledge, that the last update attempted to resolve this by “refiring ” the glow plug at some point In order to maintain combustion, but by itself may not be sufficient as there also has to be some fuel (pellets) being fed.

What I and others have observed, it that the delays in response to getting to the new set point have become greater since the last update, which in a way is good, as it reduces the potential to overshoot or undershoot the target set-point which leads me to surmise that a bit too much “D” is applied.

From my perspective this is just part of the learning curve, it happens in all pellet grills, and will be corrected with the iterative upgrades. In the interim, I tend to minimize the flameout risk by making set-point adjustments that are Step wise and smaller.

It is easy to watch the PID controller in action of you have an ambient grill temperature probe. You can see the run-up and run-down in temperature as well as the oscillation around a set point as it gradually narrows the variations in temperature fluctuations over time.

Disclaimer: I may totally wrong about the logic Weber uses, as I do not have access to, or direct knowledge of, the Weber control logic.

Further, I will defer to others who probably have a much greater knowledge of PID control logic...all I am striving for is good food, and so far the SF is delivering (I am in the middle of smoking a 15# brisket as I write this)
Thank you very much, that made sense and was very informative! You would think Weber would have correspondence with a guy like you who is actually running the SmokeFire in the real world.
thanks again.
 
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Dassman5, that is excellent. Would it be correct to say that it might be beneficial to move the set point in smaller steps than a big jump? For example, instead of going from 220 to 450 it might be better to do 220 to 320 to 450, dependent upon the derivative. I do think that the additional air probe would really help us understand what is happening.
 
Dassman5, that is excellent. Would it be correct to say that it might be beneficial to move the set point in smaller steps than a big jump? For example, instead of going from 220 to 450 it might be better to do 220 to 320 to 450, dependent upon the derivative. I do think that the additional air probe would really help us understand what is happening.
Yes to both.

I seldom increment or decrement my temperatures by more than 50 degrees at a time. I don’t necessarily stay at the number for long, but once the probe gets near to the decreased set-point I can then move it down again. Not so important when increasing, but I have used it for all of my of “decreasing” and have yet to have a failure.

The extra air probe really lets you watch what is happening and gives you a good sense of the oscillation ( over and undershoot of the setpoint, plus it helps keep an eye on it.

For example, I am doing a brisket and recent adjusted the set-point from 210 to 230 as I just wrapped it. The grill says it is at 230, but my extra probe shows 212 and increasing. It will soon stabilize at about 10 degrees plus or minus that set-point...good enough for an excellent brisket for dinner later.
 
Well, I did a run today and temp increases were really a problem. When going from 250 to 300, I had to get to 165 before it went up. And I tried small steps to increase the temp. Just not good.

I did try to stop by Lowe's and Home Depot to get an air probe for the controller. They were sold out everywhere I went but they all had meat probes. The iConnect must be sucking up the air probes.
 

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